Slip-Sliding
Away
Dear Jay: Our anchor windlass isn't working right. When we haul
up the anchor, a link or two of the chain jumps out of the windlass.
We must have the wrong size of chain. Our boat is a 34-foot trawler
type with a 35-lb. anchor. What size of chain should we have for an
all-chain type rode?
- Sandy
Belistaire, Seattle
Dear Sandy: There is no single answer for your question. Several
sizes of chain would work for your boat: 1/4", 5/16" or 3/8"
could be made to work. If you used a 1/4", it should be of the
high-test variety. This would be a good chain to use if you were trying
to keep the weight at a minimum. Also, 5/16" or 3/8" would
work, with the 3/8" being a significant overkill. Most boats would
stick with the 5/16" for local cruising.
Then you have to decide if you want proof coil or BBB-type chain. The
proof coil has longer links, which initially might sound like a good
idea but the shorter links of the BBB means that they "hug"
the anchor windlass a little better and this is the popular choice today.
A final decision might be between a stainless steel chain and the galvanized
version. Given the fact that the stainless can run about three times
the cost of the galvanized, the choice for many is simple.
Now that we've gone through all that, you hopefully won't have to change
out the chain. Check to see that there is a fair lead between the anchor
roller and the chain wheel. If there is, and the chain makes a proper
wrap around the chain wheel (about 90 degrees), then the problem is
probably the chain wheel itself. It could be the wrong size for the
chain. Measure the chain very carefully. Look for any markings. Look
carefully at the chain wheel and see if you can find a size or number
stamped on it anywhere. Then contact the local distributor for your
windlass. They can help you match up a chain and chain wheel combination
that will provide smooth operation.
Southern Comfort
Dear Jay: We just bought a boat built in Florida with air conditioning
that also provides heat. My friend, who is a real boat expert, claims
that we'll want to get rid of the air conditioning since it isn't very
efficient in the heating mode. So far it seems to work just fine, even
in some pretty cold weather. Reverse-cycle heat pumps work great in
homes (I think) so I'm wondering why we wouldn't want to use it. The
diesel heating units we looked at are expensive. - Charlie
Delmore, Ferndale
Dear Charlie: Many boats in the Northwest get along just fine
using the reverse-cycle air conditioning as a heat source. The major
disadvantage of this system is that you have to be at the dock with
enough power to run the system or have the auxiliary generator running.
So you're okay in most marinas, while running, and at anchor during
the day. But come night at anchor when you're expected to shut down
the genset, it could get a little chilly. If this is a problem for you
then some sort of diesel heat will be needed. Some boats use smaller
diesel heaters for just the stateroom areas for overnight use. Running
electric blankets off an inverter can also be helpful.
Top Heavy
Dear Jay: Our 42-foot trawler has a nice, large flying bridge. Several
years ago we had a full canvas enclosure made for it and now we hardly
ever use the lower helm at all. The canvas is a little drafty, however,
and I'd love to have a full hard enclosure with a nice tall mast for
the radar. I retired last year and have the time to do it myself and
I think I could do a pretty good job building to my own design. I'm
aware, however, that the extra weight of all this might affect the stability
of the boat. The dealer and (I think) the boat builder in Taiwan is
no longer in business. Do you know of anyway that I can get my hands
on the original stability data for the base boat? Or do I have to hire
a naval architect and start from scratch to determine what might happen
if I add this weight? - Ned
Alford, Port Angeles
Dear Ned: It is most unlikely that there ever was any original "stability
data." Most boats of this type are simply built based on experience.
Adding weight as you propose will most certainly affect the roll characteristics
of the vessel. This could be good news or bad news, but will for sure
be difficult to predict. Even though I have no idea exactly what your
boat is like, most boats of this type would probably be just fine with
such a modification. Consulting an engineer could give you some piece
of mind, however. Another approach might be to calculate the amount
of weight you are thinking of adding and then using a 55-gallon drum
and the appropriate amount of water. Take her out for a sea trial. You
may or may not like what the weight does.
Given the fact that the stainless can run about three times the cost
of the galvanized, the choice for many is simple.
Stained Stainless
Dear Jay: Lately I've been obsessing over the packing gland and
shaft in our boat. There is but one shaft coming through a traditional
packing gland to a coupling that bolts to the transmission. This thing
drips just about all of the time. There is what appears to be corrosion
on the shaft around the gland, but the shaft is made out of stainless
steel. Is it possible for the stainless steel to corrode? Are those
new mechanical shaft seals a good idea? - Montgomery
Newhart, Federal Way
Dear Montgomery: Unfortunately, stainless steel can stain and
corrode. It corrodes differently that regular steel however. We've all
seen rust on steel, which is called ferrous oxide. The rust will form
on any mild steel part that is exposed to the proper mixture of oxygen
and water vapor. The steel then oxidizes, causing the rust to form and
the steel just keeps on oxidizing until it is all gone.
With stainless steel, an oxide layer forms on the surface just like
mild steel, but in this case the oxide layer actually protects the material
underneath it. The problem comes when the oxide layer is removed. This
can happen when a stainless steel shaft sits for a long time in a packing
gland or even a rubber cutlass bearing. The saltwater gets in and burns
away the oxide coating and because no new fresh oxygen can get in, a
small galvanic cell gets set-up and pitting corrosion occurs. This is
why we see pitting corrosion in the packing gland and cutlass bearing
areas of stainless steel shafts. The only way to tell for sure is to
pull the shaft out at least partially and examine these areas visually.
A mechanical shaft seal is definitely an improvement and well worth
considering.
Tanks
for Something
Dear Jay: I'd like to extend the range of our fiberglass boat
with some additional tankage for both fuel and water. After looking
around I've found some storage space under the V-berth, in the engine
room and in the lazarette that I'm willing to sacrifice for tanks. The
problem is that getting a pre-built, metal tank into those spaces is
impossible without tearing half the boat apart. I've heard of bladders
being used in airplanes and I'm wondering if they might work. Are there
any disadvantages to these? I'd also consider building in a fiberglass
tank integral with the hull if that is allowed. I've never seen another
fiberglass boat with that feature, however, and am wondering why not
since it seems like a simple and easy way to add tankage when the boat
is being built. Why is that? - Emil
Forsythe, Seattle
Dear
Emil: Bladders for fuel, water and sanitation are certainly available,
but they come in a limited number of sizes. Making good use of the
space is important, so I'm not sure one would work well under the
V-berth. You'd just have to measure and decide. The integral tank
idea is not a bad one but there are some pitfalls. First of all, integral
fiberglass tanks have to have the correct lining material. If you
are going to build a fiberglass water tank for example, you must have
FDA-approved resin. Another problem is that new fiberglass is especially
prone to imparting a taste to the water. The secret here is a steam
cleaning of the tank before final assembly. Then a chlorine flush.
Note that ABYC recommends that the tank be above the normal bilge
water level and that tanks be tested to at least three PSI. See ABYC
H-23 for all the requirements.
For fuel tanks, you need an approved liner for the fuel you are going
to put in them. Believe it or not, gasoline and diesel can pass right
through untreated fiberglass! This may be a little hard to believe
but take my word for it, it's true-I've seen it happen. Gasoline fuel
tanks cannot be integral with the hull. In addition, there are numerous
other standards and tests required that essentially prevent any amateur
gasoline tank construction. Please note that these requirements are
federal law. See ABYC H-24. If you've got diesel it's an easier deal.
Integral tanks are allowed, but there is still a host of other requirements
to meet. Review ABYC H-33 before you start. All of this has discouraged
many others before you. One alternative is to build several small
metal tanks that will fit through the doors and passageways and then
connect them together after they are installed in place.
