In
this edition of "The Rod Tip" I am going to focus on the area
of the boat that has the greatest impact on its suitability as a fishing
machine. Regardless of the size of the boat or its other design features,
the layout of the stern half determines whether that boat can be an effective
fishing platform. Because angling can be done from so many different types
of boats, I have made a few assumptions about size, engine power and fishing
styles that will put some boundaries on the content of this article.
-Most fishing boats
are between 17 and 24 feet in length.
-They are powered primarily by outboard or inboard/outboard engines.
-Trolling is the most popular salmon-fishing method.
Boats
from 17 to 24 feet in length probably make up the bulk of the sports
fleet along the West Coast. Their popularity is a function of affordability
in terms of purchase price and upkeep, a reasonable level of comfort
and good resale value. They are also quite easy to trailer, which gives
the anglers mobility and solves their wharfage problems. New high-end
boats can easily carry a $100,000 price tag, but there are also many
good buys for $20,000 or less.
Since
repowering can cost up to $20,000, it only makes sense to treat these
engines properly and to run them within the recommended guidelines.
Outboard versus inboard/outboard has
been a long running debate with small-boat owners. I am not going to
veer off on that tangent even though I have always been a strong supporter
of inboard/outboard power. This confidence is based on having consistently
good luck with these engines. One actually lasted over 29 years. However,
from a fishing perspective both are equal as a main power source for
any good-quality boat. There are differences in terms of cost, fuel
consumption and maintenance that will make interesting 
material
for another article. The key to worry-free operation can be summed up
in one word: maintenance. Since repowering can cost up to $20,000, it
only makes sense to treat these engines properly and to run them within
the recommended guidelines.
Trolling, which technically includes
cut plugging and arguably even power mooching, is the method of fishing
used by most saltwater salmon anglers. Jigging, fly-casting and drift
mooching are popular angling tactics, but their combined usage still
falls well short of traditional trolling methods. With some exceptions,
a boat that works well for trolling will fit these other fishing styles
reasonably well. Confirmed moochers would argue that a walkaround style
is preferred because it facilitates access to rods positioned anywhere
on the boat. Regardless, the trolling method is prevalent from California
to Alaska and can be used every month of the year for all species of
Pacific salmon.
Fishing
from a poorly designed boat can diminish
the excitement of a good fishing trip.
Here
are the key things you should look for in a good fishing boat:
The transom should
be large, flat and nearly perpendicular to the water.
The shape and size of the transom is very important for trolling, cut
plugging or power mooching. This is because these fishing styles are
generally done with a small auxiliary motor, which anglers refer to
as their "kicker." There are some real advantages to using
a small motor for this purpose. First, they are fuel-efficient and reduce
the hours and wear on the main engine. Second, the modern four-stroke
engines are quiet, smooth and they can make the boat respond quickly
to course changes because they pack lots of thrust when needed. Finally,
they can get you home or to shelter, and perhaps save your life, if
the main engine shuts down.
For the past decade, the preferred models
have been either the Honda or Yamaha four-stroke long shaft motors rated
at just less than 10 horsepower. A flat, roomy transom provides lots
of space to mount the engine. It can be hung directly on the engine
well next to the main outboard or preferably, if the transom is wide
enough, onto an adjustable engine bracket at one side of the transom
or the other. Choosing the correct side to place the kicker is important.
A good rule of thumb is to mount the engine on the opposite side from
the seat in front of the main controls.
The first purchase after buying a trolling motor should be a propeller
guard. These devices are inexpensive and easy to attach. They prevent
both fishing line and downrigger wire from wrapping around the propeller
thus avoiding the frustration caused by lost fishing time and costly
tackle replacement bills.
There are two simple ways to improve the steering capability of your
trolling motor. (Forget about steering with the short throttle arm,
because it is difficult and awkward to handle.) The first involves either
purchasing or custom-fitting a steering bar between the main engine
and the trolling motor. This bar has spring-loaded fittings so it can
be attached or removed quickly. This steering system means the operator
can sit in the comfort of the cabin and control the boat with the main
wheel. The second method involves making a steering bar and handle that
can be mounted onto the kicker engine cover or control arm. This provides
steerage from the back of the boat and is the method I have used for
years. I chose this system because the distance over the transom of
my boat is too far to attach a bar between the motors. I also like this
set-up because I can run the boat with the rods and downriggers right
in front of me, making them accessible and easy to see.
The gunwale (gunnel)
should be high and relatively flat.
High gunwales are a real safety feature.
As much as we like to think that sport fishing is always done under
warm, sunny skies with no wind and calm seas, the opposite is more often
the case. This year I made about 10 trips to the Strait of Juan de Fuca
to fish for large migrating chinooks and then later in the season for
coho salmon. On at least half of those trips the winds were strong and
the seas were rough. These problems were often complicated by foggy
conditions. The message from this is simple: if you fall overboard you
may not survive.
About 20 years ago I watched a fishing
companion of mine go over the stern of my 17-foot Hourston. It happened
on a warm, sunny summer day in perfectly calm conditions. He disappeared
in seconds and there was no time to react before he hit the water. Fortunately,
it only took a few minutes to get him back into the boat. His misfortune
was caused by a poor choice of shoes and an accidental cough that launched
his upper denture over the side.
The gunwale should strike you above the
knees when you lean against the side of the boat. It is equally important
that each interior wall of the cockpit rise perpendicular from the deck.
Some boats are designed with these walls canting outwards or with a
sloped join between the deck and the interior wall. This design makes
it difficult to plant your feet in order to brace yourself properly
and may cause you to lose your balance. These relatively insignificant
design flaws are potentially dangerous and may completely negate the
safety net provided by adequate gunwale height.
You would not work from a bench that
was the wrong height, so think of the gunwale as part of the cockpit
workbench. At a minimum, it supports your rods and downriggers. So make
sure it is as high as possible and you will be rewarded with a more
comfortable fishing experience. If you take a lot of fishing trips and
are continually bending over to crank your downriggers or to take your
rod from the holder, you are going to develop some kind of pain or discomfort.
Fishing from a poorly designed boat can diminish the excitement of a
good fishing trip.
The
trick to keeping the working area clutter-free is to
avoid using the deck as a convenient drop zone.
The top of the gunwale should be flat in order to mount rod holders
and downriggers properly. Most glass boats have a two-tiered gunwale.
Look for a boat that has the widest flat spot between the interior edge
of the gunwale and the drop to the second level. If this area is not
wide enough you will need to construct additional mounting brackets
and rigger supports to level the surface.
Downriggers put a tremendous amount of
torque on the mounting surface, so check to see that the underside of
the gunwale is accessible from the inside of the cockpit. You need to
be able to get at this area in order to run the bracket bolts through
the gunwale as well as through a backing plate of hardwood or metal.
This will distribute the forces working on the mounting surface over
a much bigger area. Poorly secured downriggers often end up on the bottom.
While filming a show for Gary Cooper's
fishing series, we hooked a cannonball on one of notorious reefs of
Coal Island. Surprisingly, we were able to retrieve all of our gear
with relative ease. In the process we pulled up a brand new downrigger.
Apparently some less-fortunate angler snagged on the same reef. The
forward momentum of his boat, probably aided by a swift moving tide,
sent the rigger on a 90-foot plunge to the bottom. After looking at
our find it was apparent that the previous owner had used inexpensive
wood screws to secure it to his boat.
The cockpit area
should be spacious, uncluttered and well laid out.
There is never enough room at the stern
of a fishing boat to satisfy me-well, almost never enough room. I have
been in some pretty spacious working areas but they came attached to
boats with six-figure price tags. It can be a struggle for a West Coast
salmon angler with an average bank account to find a boat that includes
enough area between the cabin and the transom. Unfortunately this part
of the boat often morphs into a collection point for rods, tackle boxes,
fish tubs, lunch bags, coolers, bait boxes and landing nets; along with
one or two fishing buddies who prefer to stay right where all the action
and all the confusion takes place.
I am surprised that so many small-boat manufacturers, including some
with worldwide sales and reputations, have missed this basic design
requirement. Open layout, centre console boats are a good example of
this point. In spite of the fact that most are extremely well made and
durable, the working area between the bench seat and the transom is
barely large enough for one person, while there is usually plenty of
unused and often unusable space forward of the control console. They
are fine for drift mooching or jigging, but poorly laid out for serious
trolling needs.
Outboard-motor advocates argue that the outboard set-up provides more
space than inboard/outboards because the inboard/outboard engine cover
takes up available deck space.
They
are partially correct. Because outboards are mounted onto or behind
the transom, there is some payback in available deck space. However,
most of the older, small-boat models, and many current designs, come
with the traditional outboard engine well. This uses up a significant
amount of that gained space. Recent changes feature the outboard fixed
onto its own grid, but this improvement seems to be limited to the more
expensive models. I find that the inboard/outboard engine cover is a
benefit rather than a hindrance. It provides an excellent flat working
surface as well as an additional seat when needed. I will trade those
advantages for the lost deck space every time.
Look for a boat that has lots of side-panel
storage. These areas are ideal for holding downrigger cannonballs, deck
mops, spare fenders, extra tie lines and fending poles. These are important
items that you might need to access quickly. The trick to keeping the
working area clutter-free is to avoid using the deck as a convenient
drop zone. If you are buying a boat, see if it has built-in fish tubs
and flip-up seats that provide capacity for tackle boxes, small coolers
for bait or food, or items that might be needed for the general upkeep
of your boat. If it does not have these features see if the overall
layout allows for retrofitting additional capacity. Spare fishing rods
can be broken down and stored in the forward section of the boat. I
have tried using some of the rod storage mounts that attach to vertical
surfaces. While they give the impression of order and neatness, the
rods often get in the way when playing and landing fish. Even rods mounted
on holders that attach to the hardtop or radar arch manage to get tangled
when an active fish decides to take a quick tour around the boat. I
have found that it is best to use the rods that you plan on fishing
with and keep the spares well out of the way. Landing nets can be fitted
on the outside of the boat or broken down and stored forward until they
are needed.
v Setting up the position of your downriggers and rod holders is really
important. I like my downriggers mounted towards the stern of the boat.
If you plan on using a third rigger make sure that your boat is large
enough or that you have riggers with long extension arms. The usual
third rigger mounting position is close to the centre of the transom
on the opposite side from the trolling motor. Personally, I think most
anglers can be just as successful with two riggers instead of three
or four. The extra rods and riggers require a lot of additional work
that might only provide a few more fish. If you want to run extra rods,
put one or two rod holders on the stern of the boat. The four-rod set-up
means that one extra rod can be stacked above the deep line on each
downrigger. Just keep the stacked lure at least 20 feet above the bottom
rig to avoid fouling the two lines.
Finally, set your rod holder as close
to the downrigger as possible without having the rigger interfere with
easy access to the rod and reel. Many new downrigger models come equipped
with the rod holder on the rigger boom. This is fine and simplifies
the movement between these two pieces of fishing equipment. Just remember
that the weight of the rod and rod holder combined with drag on the
line, once the lure is set at fishing depth, will add more pressure
on the downrigger mount. If you want to find out how just how much pressure
is on the fishing line, just let out a few hundred feet of line behind
the boat with a light weight attached. Then try to hand line it aboard
while the boat is moving at trolling speed. So be sure that your downrigger
is well secured to whatever mounting position you have chosen.
The keys to owning a good sportfishing
boat are based on having enough space to move around freely, working
in a cockpit area that has a simple but efficient design, and keeping
your important pieces of fishing equipment close at hand. If a boat,
regardless of price, has these features, it will give you thousands
of hours of enjoyable angling experiences. 
